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Conference 2013


Fashioning the Archive: New Approaches to Materialising Textile History

Conference 2013

Satoru Aoyama


11 January 2014 (and previous conference on the 7-8 NOVEMBER 2013).

Goldsmiths, University of London



Goldsmiths, Deptford Town Hall,

Lewisham Way, New Cross, London SE14 NW


Programme and Abstracts

9.30-10 Registration, coffee and welcome

10-11 Keynote speaker

Dr Patrik Steorn, Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University

‘Swedish fashion in the US. A transnational perspective.’

11-11.20 Coffee

11.20-12.20 Session 1: Embodying the Archive

Debra Roberts, Leeds College of Art

‘Conversation Pieces’

Kimberly Wahl, School of Fashion, Ryerson University

‘Textiles, Image and Text: Embodying the Ephemera of British Suffrage, 1900-1914.’

12.20-1.20 Lunch - There will be an opportunity to see items from the Goldsmiths Textile Collection during lunch.

1.20-2.20 Session 2: The Performed Archive

Caroline Hamilton, Kings College London

‘Behind the seams of the Ballets Russes: An investigation into the Company’s surviving costumes and their role as a historical resource’

Claire Suckall, Scenographer

‘A New Way to Design Costume: The process of reading and imprinting traces of performance in costume.’

2.20-2.30 Comfort break

2.30-3.30 Session 3: Digitizing the Archive

Tincuta Heinzel, University of Arts Berlin

‘Artists in Industry. Challenges of collecting a missing piece of puzzle of the Romanian institutionalized textile history.’

Dinah Eastop, The National Archives, and Anna Brass, artist and film-maker

‘Sensory experience online: texture in image and sound for the BT Design Register, 1839-1991.’

3.30-3.50 Tea

3.50-4.50 Session 4: Refashioning the Archive

Ruby Hoette, Goldsmiths, University of London

‘Fashion: The ‘New’ and the Archive’

Jenny Doussan, Goldsmiths, University of London

‘Fashion, Epistemology, and the Forgettable: Rethinking the archive’

4.50-5 Closing comments

Fashioning the Archive: New Approaches to Materialising Textile History - 7-8 November 2013


Download the Programme with Abstracts for the 7-8 November 2013


Thursday November 7 2013

9.15-9.45 Registration and coffee

9.45-10 Welcome

10-11 Keynote Speaker:

Professor Carolyn Steedman, University of Warwick

‘Stockings and Stays: Making Material'

11-11.15 Coffee

11.15-12.45 Gender and Embroidered Histories

Ariane Fennetaux, Université Paris Diderot, ‘Unpicking Pockets to Peek into the Past’

Rachel Silberstein, Merton College, University of Oxford, ‘Between the Workshop and the Village: Producing Commercial Embroidery in Late Qing China’

Bernice Archer and Alan Jeffreys, Imperial War Museum, ‘The Women’s Embroideries of Interment in the Far East 1941-1945’

12.45-1.45 Lunch

1.45-3.15 Panel Presentation: Cloth, Postcoloniality and the Archive

Chair, Christine Checinska, University of East London,

Bharti Parmar, Visual Artist, ‘Widows Weeds: Reflections on Black’

Wessie Ling, London College of Fashion, ‘The Multiplicity of the Chinese Dress’

Katrina Talei Igglesden, Sainsbury Research Unit, University of East Anglia, and Rosanna Raymond, University College, London, ‘Fabricating Fashion?’

3.15-3.30 Tea

3.30-5 Woven Histories

Magdalena Buchczyk, Goldsmiths, University of London, ‘To Weave or Not to Weave – Vernacular Textiles and Historical Change in Romania’

Francesca Baseby, University of Edinburgh and Dovecot Studios, ‘Materialising Tapestry in Post-war Edinburgh, 1945-1970’

Jane Custance Baker, Goldsmiths, University of London, ‘Textiles in Text: The use of Tweed in Interwar Detective Fiction’

6-7.30 Constance Howard Gallery, Wine reception + private view:

Katya Oicherman, Stories of the Torn Swaddling Cloths: The embroidery and video work reflects on the emergence of a contemporary Russian-Jewish female identity in Israel, fabricating links between 19th century Jewish ceremonial textiles and the autobiography of the artist.


Textiles from the Goldsmiths’ Textile Collection


Friday November 8 2013

9.45-10.45 Keynote Speaker:

Dr Solveigh Goett, Textile Artist and Researcher, title tbc

10.45-11 Coffee

11-12.30 Senses and Stories

Alison Matthews David, Ryerson University, ‘Do (Not) Touch: The Material Lives of Fashion Victims’

Cathy Greenhalgh, University of the Arts, London, ‘Cottonopolis – Film, Sensory Ethnography and “Textile Sense”’

Eni Bankole-Race, Maverick Designs and Freelance Lecturer,  ‘Weaving the Future, Wearing the Past: Contemporising History Through Aso-Oke’

12.40-1.10 The Digital Archive

Annin Barrett, The Art Institute of Portland, and Caleb Sayan, Blue Rider Design, ‘Integrating Physical and Digital Resources for Textile Education in the United States’

1.10-1.30 Closing comments

1.10- 2 Optional Lunch

2-3.15 Optional handling session I (Goldsmiths’ Textile Collection in Constance Howard Gallery)

3.15-3.30 Tea

3.30-4.45 Optional handling session II (Goldsmiths’ Textile Collection in Constance Howard Gallery)

For more information, including registration, please go to: